MACCHERMO TO
GOKYO (4720M)

The plaque says:  

"Love of mountains did them unite,

A rush of snow brought death in white,

An early end, but one final grace,

Eternal rest

In this mountain place”

Another solemn reminder of the dangers up here

Twenty five Japanese and sherpa trekkers lost their lives right at this spot in 1975.  In a ‘flash of white’ an avalanche swept their lives away while they trekked up this very valley.  They, like us, would also have felt invincible but sadly, they never made it home.


Upwards and onwards


On the trail

We are feeling slightly vunerable now as we begin the long hard pull up the western side of the valley. 
 

This track is extraordinary

We can see the head of the glacier now and deep in the valley the noise from the rushing river water fills the air. 

 
The track is hacked with icepicks to give some grip

If you have seen the very wonderful film Himalaya you will remember the scene when the yaks are barrelling down the perilous track by the river, well, our trail now becomes very similar to the treacherous images. 

My photos do not completely display the steepness or depth of the valley or the thin air or the difficulty of crossing the icy waterfalls that cross the path.  This part of the walk is all about extremes. 

Sensations are screeching to the max. 

If I look at the scenery I am in awe, but hey, I have to watch my step!   

But hang on, I have to take a breather as my heart is banging in my chest and I am am wet with sweat from the effort of pushing myself up into altitude. 

The water sounds drown out my heaving breathing, probably a good thing!

 
I hang onto my hat as the wind whips down Gokyo Valley

Finally we reach the glacier where the track will take a left hand turn into the truly spectacular Gokyo Valley.  A small timber bridge crosses over the raging water roars as it gushes from the glacier and lakes.  The temperature plummets and the wind is blowing furiously. 

 
Trekking into the Valley

You know, I have been saying the views are spectacular all they way along, but this is what trekking is all about.  Each and every step of the way you are treated to something exceptional.  You won’t see these things if you sit at home, or vacation in fancy hotels. 

You have to summon up a sense of adventure and put yourself out there……it’s the only way you will visit such untouched magical worlds.

 
Looking back the way we came

This valley is exudes a magic.  It is a pure vision.

 
Michelle jumps for joy as she can see the end in sight

We reach a small lake, in fact there are 5 lakes along this valley but we will only see three of them.  At this time of year ice has covered most of the water but we actually spot the rare ducks that make this lake home. 


Duck spotting - yes they are there!

 
Looking up the Valley we see Gokyo Peak and not a cloud in the sky

We still have a few hours to trek before we arrive in Gokyo, but oh boy, we can see Gokyo Peak sitting right at the end of the valley.   Tomorrow we hope to be standing on top of it.  But for now we have work to do by putting one foot after the other, as we move towards our goal.  All along the way are small pebble columns where previous trekkers have left their marks.  I hope mine is still there after all this time. 

 
Good luck

This part of the walk seems to take forever, but I am sure it only feels like that. 


The village is in sight

Finally we arrive in Gokyo (4750m) a very small temporary village.  It is beautifully positioned beside a large lake on one side and the Ngozumpa Glacier on the other.  And right in front of the little group of buildings is Gokyo Peak. I can now notice the steep sheep track up the bare mountainside.  But that is tomorrow’s task.  Let’s not worry about that now!

Almost there...

Neema ushers into the glassroom.  . 

The weary ones collapse in the 'glass' room - we have made it!

The walls and ceiling are all glass and I can’t help wondering how they managed to get it there unbroken!!!  Whilst the views are beyond divine, the glass is no protection for the freezing outside conditions - my bones must be frozen brittle by now!!

However, we rug up and have some light lunch.  “Go and explore” say Neema and, as we know the ropes, we go up higher than we plan to sleep.

Mr G and I put on all our warm gear and head up the rise behind the village. 

Wow, what a vision. 


To the left we can see the glacier heading towards Tibet


To the right, beside the trail we have just wallked

Over the crest we can see the huge creaking glacier.  It is 20 kilometres long and wide.  The top of the ice is covered with gravel which make it look like an easy plod across to the other side.  But I wouldn’t do it if I were you!!!  Underneath is solid ice..  And the noises we can hear is the ice banging and crashing as it breaks off into the water as it melts. 


(this photo was taken from Gokyo Peak)

To give you some perspective, we stood on the crest to the right of the picture looking down into the glacier. Gokyo Village sits just below the crest.


Huge chunks of ice melt and break off making a huge noise

The lake on the other side also makes a noise.  It thuds.  We presume it is the water banging backwards and forwards under the ice.  It is pretty darn amazing to be in the middle of the banging and thudding of these icy wonders.  And this particular spot that I am standing is beyond cold.  I have been saying freezing before, but this is definitely freezing in the extreme. 

 
After a big day of walking up to Gokyo and a bit of local sightseeing we decide to go back down to the teahouse.  On the way we notice a group of neatly positioned tents and I thank the Lord I have opted for teahouse accommodation. 

Back in the glass room we sit and wait for our room allocation and while we while away the time enjoying the visions through the glass, one of the Sherpas decides to clean out the pot belly stove before he starts it up.  Big, big, big mistake!!  
 

Ash of yak dung has turned into a fine powder and with all the sweeping motions to remove the excess from the stove, it billows out in huge black clouds that has us all coughing and choking. 

I am not really liking my lungs being lined with this disgusting mix.  However, it is hilarious and all we girls are giggling hysterically as we duck our heads for cover under our scarves.  Our once spectacular views have been reduced to a few feet but at this point we are more interested in having a warm fire to huddle by.  That could be the reward from now being covered in black soot!.   

Alas, the fire takes forever to start and hardly changes the temperature of the room.  Apart from yak dung not being a great radiator of warmth, it has to contend with glass being the only barrier to the outside temperature which must be something like minus 50 degrees!!!   Warmth in Gokyo is never going to be an option.

Gokyo views

 Mr G & I take possession of our room.  We notice that there are gaps between the rock exterior walls and that a breeze is blowing in between them.   This is not good!  Maybe a tent would have been a good choice after all.  And, the plywood walls have gaps into the next rooms and the door doesn’t lock. 

Can you see the 'glass room'?

The toilet is down the long rickety staircase and out into the stone walled yard.  It is a gleaming white eastern toilet which seems quite odd out here, but the ground is probably frozen solid so digging deep holes would be almost impossible.

We get the call to dinner and it is not in the ‘glass room’ as expected.  We are secretly thankful.  We go down the rickety stairs and into the kitchen area under the bedrooms.  This spot area is minus 5 degrees.  I am wearing everything I have brought with me and am still shivering.  I am longing for a hot drink and hot food.

We have rarely seen other trekkers along the way, but here we meet three huge German men.  They look like the kind of guys who could pull sleds across the Artic circle.  Tonight they are huddled up in a freezing dining area with a group of ‘city slicker trekkers’ who have made the same destination just as they have. 

We feel slightly impressed with ourselves. 

After a very basic dinner (the stores are running low) some of the group have nasal problems and Neema gets some bowls of hot water organised.  Six of us spend the next ten minutes under our parkers as we breathe in the decongesting fumes of Tiger Balm.  Funnily enough, it is quite helpful and the only time that any bit of my body has felt warm.

 
We stagger up the stairs and ready ourselves for bed.  I am dreading this as it is so cold I am wondering if my sleeping bag will provide enough warmth to get me through the night.  Unfortunately I need to use the toilet so I make my way outside in the dark.  A yak has positioned itself right in front of the toilet door and it takes ages to coax it away, time ill spent in the frozen landscape I must say! 

Once snug in my sleeping bag I expect I will not sleep well.  I pray to make it through to morning without a toilet trip.

What will tomorrow be like?   We hope for a clear sky so we can make our grind up the Peak as comfortable as possible.  And of course, when we get to the top, we want to be able to see the spectacular 380 degrees views of the Tibetan and Nepalese mountains including the highest in the world. 

Tomorrow will be tough but it will end up being one of the most fabulous moments in my life.

 

A taste of the views on the way up Gokyo Peak.
Looking down at Gokyo Village and along the vallley we have just wallked

Gokyo is only 640 metres high but it will surely test our mettle!!!!

Will we all make it? 

Click here for Day 10

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