The Land of the Long White Cloud
I recently holidayed in the South Island of New Zealand.
The home of bungee jumping and other thrill-seeking attractions, such as whitewater rafting, jet boat riding and skydiving to name just a few.
White water rafting
Sky Diver Landing on Beach
The wild and wonderful South Island of New Zealand offers everything from remote trekking to whale-watching. Within an area the same size as England and Wales, you can float over tranquil meadows in a hot-air balloon, get up close to a glacier, enjoy the fruits of the southernmost wine-making region in the world, and even get a glimpse into Antarctica.
Our easy two and a half hour flight touched down in Christchurch from Sydney mid-afternoon, knowing we had only eight days to see the sights and experience the attractions, we hit the ground running.
Stepping off the plane into Christchurch airport, we quickly learned that this airport is one of the leading aviation hubs for researchers in Antarctica and only a short walk from the airport, you will find the Antarctic Centre, which is a working Antarctic research centre, with interactive exhibits, rides, and the chance for visitors to experience Antarctic conditions... this attraction is a must see.
A 30 minute taxi ride to the city cost us $41nz, and we arrived at our hotel, The Crowne Plaza, feeling excited and eager to begin our adventure. Our hotel was rated 5 stars and although the lobby areas and restaurants were excellent, the rooms were a little out-dated and in need of a face lift.
After a quick freshen up, we ventured outside to soak up the sights and the New Zealand atmosphere.
Cathederal Square Christchurch
This was our first trip to the South Island and although it is Summer, it is only 14 degrees centigrade today and the chilling wind stings our faces like angry bees. (When we left Australia it was around 40 degrees).
Christchurch, capital of the South Island is an appealing and quaint city, with Gothic-style architecture, punting on the river and plenty of green spaces including the vast Hagley Park. The centre of Christchurch is compact and easy to explore on foot; there is also a vintage tram service which starts in Cathedral Square and makes a loop across the Avon River and past the park.
Mr J and I Punting on the Avon River
There is so much to see in Christchurch and we have so little time. Our visit takes on whirlwind proportions as we take in a couple of free museums (well worth visiting), the Canterbury Museum on Rolleston Avenue with its Maori gallery; and the striking new modern art museum, Te Puna O Waiwhetu.
Avon River
The Arts Centre, was converted from the buildings of the old Canterbury College. It contains artists' workshops, cafés, and Rutherford's Den, the rooms where the Nobel Prize-winning scientist who split the atom began his distinguished career.
Mr J and I also marvelled at the Botanic gardens as we absorbed the intoxicating scents of the blooming rose garden.
After spending the afternoon exploring this remarkable city, we’d worked up a hearty appetite and decided to indulge ourselves and board the tram restaurant for dinner.
Tram Restaurant
What a wonderfully romantic evening!
The tram meandered around the city as we enjoyed a freshly cooked (on the tram) sumptuous, three course meal...delicious. It’s hard to imagine how the chef was able to offer such a feast given his incredibly confined kitchen area. The dinner was, of course, washed down with a crisp New Zealand Sav Blanc.
As we savoured our macchiato and dessert wine, we watched day slowly turn into night. The veil of darkness stippled by the illumination of street lamps and restaurant candles, revealed yet another facet to this fascinating town.
To end our superb evening, we dropped into the casino, conveniently located just a few steps from our hotel. Our idealistic wish to win back the cost of our vacation was soon dashed and we retired to our room shaking our heads at our naivety.
The next day we were up bright and early, riding the gondola up the edge of the crater until we reached the 360 degree lookout – magnificient!
We shared a meat pie for breakfast, I know, I know it’s not ideal breakfast food but it’s truly all the gondola’s cafe had to offer us. We then drove along the coastline and down to the harbour in our pint-sized hire car, however, given the high cost of petrol in New Zealand you wouldn’t want to be driving a V8.
Later that day, we boarded a Qantas jet for a brief 30 minute flight to Queenstown. We had heard so many positive travel stories about Queenstown that we were just bursting to get there and see it all for ourselves.
We waited and waited at the airport’s baggage carousel for our luggage to arrive when suddenly it came to a blinding halt, leaving Mr J and I and about 15 of our fellow passengers standing there in disbelief with gaping mouths and bulging eyes. Don’t tell me....
We raced over to the baggage claims office and as we loudly protested, a stony faced representative from Qantas calmly told us that she was sorry, our bags had been unloaded at Christchurch before the flight because the plane was overweight. Moments earlier, we had all witnessed a large group of travellers with excess luggage and golf clubs safely retrieving their belongings from the carousel, how in the hell did Qantas employees have the audacity to off-load our baggage, baggage that was well underweight!
It was 6pm by this time and we sort of calmly asked the rep what time the next plane would be arriving with our bags, after all Christchurch was only 30 minutes away by air. “The next flight from Christchurch will arrive at 10:30am tomorrow and you should receive your belonging around midday”, was her reply. My shoulders hunched and I could feel smoke billowing from my nose, “Did you say tomorrow?” my voice shrilled. “You have gotta be kidding, I have no undies, no makeup, no nothing!” I then remembered that my husband’s medication was still in our bag at CHRISTCHURCH. Normally we would carry his medication in my handbag but because the flight was a mere 30 minutes, what could possibly go wrong.
We were certainly not receiving any empathy from the Qantas Representative, in fact we seemed to be boring her. She handed us a survival pack and that was that, nothing more that we could do or she would do.
We despondently joined a shuttle bus transporting us to the Soffitel Hotel where we would be spending the next few nights.
Sofitel Hotel
Our rooms were luxurious, heated tiles in the bathroom, a TV embedded in the bathroom wall to be watched from the deep twosome sized spa bath. We even had a coffee machine and coffee bar, Mr J was pleased!
Our Room
Surrounded by such luxury we started to cheer up and opened our Qantas survival bags to see what goodies we could utilise to help freshen us up for dinner. How hilarious, we both received male kits, containing extra large boxer shorts, over-sized t-shirts, shavers, antiperspirant and a toothbrush!
The next morning we ventured outdoors (still in the same clothes) and walked down to the beautiful lake surrounded by incredibly striking and mystifying mountains. We were awe struck! You have a sense of wellbeing in this magical place, it’s an ideal setting for healing the soul and soothing the mind, truly heaven sent.
Magestic Queenstown
We explored the city on foot, and at every turn we become more fascinated with its winding alleyways filled with gift shops and an eclectic array of alfresco eateries and pubs.
Cosmopolitan Queenstown
It was time for our much longed for adrenalin rush so we booked an adventure package that included 5 thrilling attractions. Our first was the jet boat ride on a narrow canyon of the famed Shotover River. These babies could fly, pumping out water from the internal propellers at 800 litres per second! In just inches of water we soared, winding swiftly and precariously up and down the narrow waterway missing the jagged rock edges of the canyon by a whisker. Our 360 turns gave us an unexpected shower and although the water was icy cold, we all squealed with childlike delight.
Jet boating - Mr J and I third row back
Our next adventure took us high above Queenstown in a helicopter. Mr J and I were lucky enough to have been allotted front seats where the view was panoramic and exquisite.
We landed on the mountain top for a 360 degree view over the city... a religious moment.
Joy Flights
Our next challenge was the luge. We’re both speed junkies devoid of fear and couldn’t wait to race each other down the steep mountainside. Along the way we encountered a few tricky hairpin bends and a couple of ramps that had us momentarily air born, this was exhilarating stuff and so much FUN.
Luge Racing
At the end of the luge track we joined the chairlift back to the top of the mountain so that we could do it all again. We managed to fit in 5 rides before closing and took a scenic gondola ride back down the mountain.
Views of Queenstown from the chairlift
I just had to join the bevy of tourists on the Lord of the Rings 4 wheel drive tour, and although it took a bit of persuasion to convince Mr J that this would be an interesting and captivating journey, he too became mesmerised by the breath taking and often enchanting scenery, particularly at Glenorchy, a popular destination for movie makers.
Lord of the Rings Tour -
Mr J (Hobbit) standing on my hand.
Glenorchy
The following morning we rose early, it was Valentine’s Day and we had planned to spend the night aboard a boat in Milford sound...romantic eh?
Our boat was boarding at 4:45pm and it was about 4 or 5 hours away (depending on stops).
Coast Road to Millford Sound
It was a beautiful clear day as we travelled along the coast road in our Subaru Forester car. The sky was azure blue, banded by a long white cloud. We passed the Remarkables mountain range, through old-world country towns, including Arrowsmith the historic gold mining town. Of course we also passed large numbers of grazing sheep before reaching the beautiful Fiordland. The spectacular Fiordland covers the south-west corner of the island, and consists largely of lakes and fjords. The lakeside towns of Manapouri and Te Anau are popular tourist spots, and we welcomed the opportunity in Te Anau, to enjoy a tasty lunch of warming, creamy soup and tender cuts of lamb.
With full stomachs we were back on the road and soon encountered the historic, single lane, 1270 metre long, granite walled Homer Tunnel. The government of the time utilised relief workers during the depression and began carving into the mountains in 1935. Progress was slow in those days due to difficult conditions and was also interrupted by the World War 11. After many setbacks, the tunnel eventually opened in 1945. Being a one lane tunnel, we were forced to wait 15 minutes before being given the green light to enter.
Even though it was a lengthy journey to our destination, we were captivated by the scenery for the entire trip. And when we caught sight of Milford Sound...our jaws dropped. It must be a picture, it can’t be real, I thought! I actually remember feeling this way the first time I laid eyes on Lake Louise in Canada and the Grand Canyon in the US.
Milford Sound
The boat took us the full length of Milford Sound until we reached the Tasman sea and it was a picture perfect afternoon. We felt even more blessed to hear that they only experience a mere 7 fine, sunny days like this each year.
We anchored overnight in a sheltered cove and enjoyed a buffet meal meeting new friends.
Milford Wanderer
We retired early and given the fact that we were allotted 2 single beds in a very cramped cabin, a romantic Valentines night was not an option.
Next morning we were startled by the sound of a mechanical rooster making cock-a-doodle-do sounds; this was immediately followed by the piercing sound of the ship’s horn. And as if that didn’t have you jumping to your feet, the Captain’s voice bellowed over the intercom...”time to get up ladies and gentlemen, we setting off now and I don’t want you to miss a thing”.
After a quick shower and an even quicker breakfast, we ventured onto the deck and back out into this hallowed location.
Sunshine in Milford Sound
The fog was lifting revealing the splendour of this narrow fjord as we gently cruised by fur seals frolicking in the icy waters and others basking on the craggy rock ledges, looking up to the albatross soaring overhead.
A thunderous sound pierced the peacefulness and tranquilly of moment and I looked up to discover the enormity of the waterfall that we were heading towards. The Captain steered the ship so close to the waterfall that you could almost reach out and touch it. Instead, the waterfall touched us and we were soon drenched by the overspray.
As we docked at the marina and planted our feet firmly on terra firma, I knew that this spellbinding memory of Milford Sound would stay with me forever.
Our 8 day visit to the South Island of New Zealand flew by all too quickly. There is still so much to see and do, including the scenic railways, the winery trails, hot air ballooning, bungee jumping to name just a few.
Entering Milford Sound from the Tasman Sea
I have been so touched by the beauty and splendour of the island that I have vowed to return to this enthralling part of the world in the not too distant future.
Lakefront Queenstown
