Our 3 Day Eventful and Non – Eventful Expedition to Lake Eyre
Lake Eyre in Flood
I was totally transfixed by the knowledge that the massive Lake Eyre system in South Australia covers an area of 9,690 square kilometres, or roughly the size of Holland.
Can you believe that nearly one-sixth of Australia's landmass drains into Lake Eyre, but it has filled to capacity only three times in the past 150 years and 2009 is one of those years.
When water flows in to part fill the lake via great inland rivers including the Diamantina, Cooper Creek and the Warburton, the spectacle is breathtaking.
Recently when close friends of ours suggested that we see this phenomenon for ourselves, we jumped at the opportunity.
Our travel companions
Our tour was confirmed with the travel company and we eagerly awaited our journey booked for Friday 12th June.
A driver collected us from home and transported us to the small but very busy airport in the Sydney suburbs.
Our journey was delayed briefly as the tour company realised that 2 of the 17 passengers in our group had not been collected. Mass panic ensued as a car was dispatched to the home of the understandably, irate travellers.
After weigh-in and a passenger head count, we boarded our very compact 20 seater Metro liner aircraft. Each seat has a window, although the wing blotted out much of the view for some unfortunate passengers.
In just over 2 hours we arrived at the NSW outback town of Broken Hill where we were bussed to our very minimal 3 star motel.
Dinner that evening was also minimal and so was breakfast; however, we were there to have fun so we made the most of it and because we were so looking forward to seeing Lake Eyre, our culinary desires paled into insignificance.
After breakfast, we boarded the plane again for a short flight to Marree, South Australia where we were warmly greeted by Reg Dodd.
Reg is a local, third generation aboriginal whose family are the traditional owners of the area.
He welcomed us aboard the bus as we journeyed across the open plains of the Great Artesian Basin, passing through the Great Dingo Proof Fence, the world’s longest fence spanning 5714 km from the Gulf of Carpentaria to the Indian Ocean, and on to the dry, Lake Eyre South.
Here we witnessed just how barren and desolate this region is.
Reg is both an informative and entertaining guide who stopped many times along the way to share with us his knowledge of traditional medicine and culture.
He also amazed us by showing us a 300 million year old fossilised tree and a rare desert spring.
As we neared Lake Eyre by road we were spellbound by the sight of the brilliant white salt crust that is 460mm thick in some places, and estimated to weigh 400 million tonnes. The salt flats stretched as far as the eye can see, it wasn’t hard to imagine the British speed ace Donald Campbell setting a land speed record of 403.1 miles per hour on the lake in 1964.
Me on the salt lake
We all ventured out onto the lake and it felt as though we were magically walking on water. The clear, azure blue sky and the sun’s spectacular light enhanced the lake’s salt cover as it shimmered like unflawed diamonds.
It was hard to believe the beauty and the serene feeling that this salt lake offers.
At times, it felt as though we were marooned on the moon.
Walking on the salt lake
We sampled the tempting pure salt and the taste was addictive.
Our itinerary clearly indicated that we would travel back to Marree to board a smaller aircraft for the hour long scenic flight over Lake Eyre North which is currently inundated with water. We were then scheduled to fly across to Olympic Dam, the home of the giant Roxby Mine, which we were all very excited about seeing.
To our dismay there was another last minute change in plans (no explanation given) and we were taken to a dusty, outdoor location where we were told a sumptuous lunch would be waiting...
Upon arrival at the desolate site, we were confronted by a trestle table laden with fly blown BBQ meat and salad. I understand that the organisers cannot control the fly population as it was, after all, an outback adventure so we were determined to make the most of it. We diligently brushed off the thoroughly indomitable and annoying insects to the best of our ability, however, I am sure many of us swallowed a couple of them along with our crispy sausages.
Lunch at Marree
We were then transported to Marree, population 120 and were informed in a matter of fact manner, that we would not be flying over Lake Eyre today and also, we would not be visiting or staying at Roxby Downs as promised.
Our accommodation was downgraded to the 2 star Marree Hotel, some of us were given basic rooms upstairs with shared facilities while others were accommodated in the basic cabins out the back of the pub complete with the predatory, resident mosquitoes.
Marree Hotel
The winter nights are absolutely freezing in the outback and some of my fellow travellers were devoid of any heating as their air conditioners were out of order.
We were originally booked to stay in the 4 star hotel in Roxby Downs – again, no explanation for the alteration was given and even our “tour escort” left us high and dry along with the pilots who all stayed at the “up market” accommodation in Roxby Downs.
None of our group was given any instructions as to meal arrangements or sleeping arrangements; in fact we were left to fend for ourselves.
This lack of guidance left a few travellers feeling, understandably, very incensed to put it mildly.
Marree
The next morning was also complete chaos. No-one had any idea what was planned, even the publican of the hotel was less than helpful.
We waited and waited for someone from the tour company to arrive and eventually a pilot to arrive who provided us with a rough “heads up”.
Where in the hell was our appointed “tour escort” and why had we been left stranded?
Hours later we were ushered onto a plane that flew us over the flooded area of Lake Eyre. Our feeling of frustration soon melted as we soared above this panoramic area.
Lake Eyre in flood
It’s hard to explain in words the pure splendour of the scenery, it is one of those journeys that must be personally experienced to be fully appreciated.
We also flew over the ‘Marree Man’ etched deep into the landscape. The figure is about 4 kilometres tall and was made by scraping off the vegetation and exposing the underlying surface. Surveyors speculate that the figure was made by bulldozer using GPS measurements for control. So far, no one has assumed responsibility for the unusual artwork and, in spite of investigation, the artist(s) has never been found. Rumour has it that is was a group of Americans that had worked in the area.
Marree man as viewed from a plane
Visions of this amazing flight will be imprinted into our memories forever.
After this incredible journey, we had all developed a healthy appetite and were looking forward to our next tour and pre-arranged lunch at Roxby Downs...you guessed it...someone had stuffed up yet again and although we flew to Roxby Downs, we only dropped in to pick other travellers that needed a lift back to Broken Hill.
Even though we all paid over $2,000 a person, we did not even get to see Roxby Downs or the Olympic Dam that had been keenly advertised.
Our “tour escort” was still nowhere to be seen so our often confused pilots told us not to worry as lunch had been arranged at Broken Hill, another hour’s flight away. With stomachs groaning, we flew back to Broken Hill envisaging that a lovely lunch would be awaiting us.
Broken Hill airport was our luncheon venue and we were provided with a paper plate of sandwiches and a piece of cake!
We really did expect much more.
The pilots instructed us to scoff down our lunch as we had to fly back to Sydney in time for some of our fellow passengers to catch their connecting flights back home.
Another two and a half hours of flying ensued before we landed back at the small airport in the outskirts of Sydney - courtesy of an advantageous tail wind.
The passengers were then shuttled to Sydney airport in the attempt to make their connecting flights home with little time to spare.
I really hope they made their flights.
Although I would not have missed seeing the incredible visions of Lake Eyre in flood, I could have certainly missed the unprofessional service of a travel company that boasts of their many years of experience, seamless transfers and the added benefit of providing a tour escort that has been “trained to order and is experienced in the hospitality industry”....
The only attraction that we managed to see was Lake Eyre. The advertised visit to the Pro Hart Gallery, Royal Flying Doctor Base and Olympic Dam and the last minute changes to inferior accommodation was totally unacceptable.
We paid our fares to the tour company in good faith and we expected to receive the advertised tour in return.
I plan to pursue this matter further and I will keep you posted.
